The Lonely Planet warns that travelers go to Varkala with the expectation of staying one or two nights and often find themselves still in Varkala a week later. It was easy to see how that could happen- you had to make an effort to keep track of the days. In the morning we would sit on the patio and wait out the morning power cut as it was cooler outside than inside the bamboo cottage. The time was filled with talking or reading or listening to the sound the waves made as they crashed against the cliff.
We ate at The Hungry Eye each morning for breakfast as they had the best coffee on the cliff and a pastry case that displayed the best looking pastries and cakes that were made daily. I ate at Hungry Eye my first night in Varkala because I loved the name of the place but I kept returning because I enjoyed the relaxed setting and non-pushiness of the Nepali waiters. The usual suspects would pass by while we were eating and we got to know and expect them: a man selling cards painted on eucalyptus leaves, a man selling newspapers, a man selling drums, the chai-wallah pushing his bicycle to the taxi stand. After breakfast we either rested at the cottage or went for a long walk to Varkala Beach or the Black Beach and watch the water, then an afternoon nap or reading, some more beach time, a coconut then dinner. Sometimes we would watch a cheesy movie on HBO in between the frequent power cuts.
On Thursday as we walked to the beach we were stopped by a young girl who asked us to come in and see her shop. I asked her age to which she replied ten and we told her we would stop by on our way back from the beach. She made us promise and then shook each of our hands. On the way back up the cliff we stopped in her stall, selected some items and then started in on the bargaining which was with a different family member. I always wonder why I feel so tired after shopping and I think it has to do with the bargaining. I think they were satisfied with the price, I asked to make sure they had made some money, and we were also satisfied. We formally introduced ourselves before we parted: Tara, Gia (the 10-year-old) and I and shook hands again. We learned that Gia is from Karnataka, had learned impeccable English in Goa and that she would be returning to school in six months after the tourist season was over.
Friday morning as we sat at The Hungry Eye eating our breakfast, we saw Gia walk past with a pile of wood on her head. She greeted us, waved and flashed a wide-mouthed smile. The Nepali waiters at The Hungry Eye knew her as well and they joined in greeting her as well. Saluting Gia become part of our regular routine as we went to and from Varkala Beach, with each passing we learned a little more about her and her family and each time without asking us to buy more goods – it was a welcome change. She kept track of our departure day and I told her not to worry, that we would come by and say good-bye. Gia requested that if we were not carrying anything onwards with us- soap, shampoo and such, that we would bring it to her for her family to use.
While we packed our bags on Saturday evening, we created a little pile of things to give to Gia and then supplemented it with a few items from the local shop. Sunday began as any other day – at The Hungry Eye and we said good-bye to the servers then went towards the cliff to say bye to Gia and offer her the bag of things. Gia took the bag to her mother who thanked us as did her older sister. We rushed back to the hotel to check out then sat at a cliff-side café and sipped sweet lime sodas while looking out over the Arabian Sea before beginning our northward adventure.
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